Crittenden Wine Centre

Garry Crittenden, patriarch of Crittenden Estate, and an early mover in innovative marketing and energetic sales efforts in the UK in the late 1980s and early ‘90s, is looking on with approval at son Rollo and daughter Zoe as they release details of the new Crittenden Wine Centre. - JH

The press release explains the concept thus:



The Crittenden Wine Centre will give visitors to the Crittenden Estate family farm an insightful and fulfilling experience, encouraging them to taste and learn at their own pace in seated, relaxed environment.

Winemaker Rollo Crittenden said the Centre represented “a new model for wine tourism, designed to optimise the enjoyment and learning experience of an Australian winery. The Crittenden Wine Centre will be a place where people can come to learn as much as they desire about our wines and the local region at a pace of their choosing”, Rollo added.

Upon arrival, visitors will be welcomed and given an introduction to Crittenden Estate before being offered a place to sit and asked which varietals they are most interested in tasting. Visitors will then be presented with tasting notes in either written form or via interactive presentations on electronic tablet devices, and experienced and qualified wine educators will be on hand to guide them through the wines.

In addition, the Crittenden Wine Centre will be a place where visitors can learn about the many attributes of the Mornington Peninsula wine region as well as the grape growing and winemaking process.

Crittenden Estate is well known for the diversity of wine styles it produces, which makes it an ideal venue for a tasting centre of this kind, with up to 26 wines available for tasting.

Crittenden Estate produces wines from the Mornington Peninsula’s signature varieties of pinot noir and chardonnay, as well as Italian varieties under the Pinocchio label, and Spanish varieties under the Los Hermanos label. Visitors to the Crittenden Wine Centre will have the opportunity to taste and learn about not just what the Peninsula does best, but about the range of fascinating varietals from northern Italy and Spain.

Garry, who like the Cheshire cat, is slowly but inexorably fading from the scene, commented, “the time is right to create a tasting facility such as this on the Peninsula, as it is widely regarded as one of Australia’s leading wine tourism destinations".

"We anticipate visitors will leave our new home feeling relaxed, engaged, fulfilled and well-informed about our wines. It’s a more personal approach to wine tasting, and I think people are really going to enjoy it”, Garry added.

This seated, self-paced model of wine education and appreciation is virtually non-existent in Australia. The Crittenden Wine Centre aims to broaden and enrich the cellar door experience in this country.

Zoe Crittenden, who looks after the companies’ marketing, pointed out the natural synergy that will exist between the Crittenden Wine Centre and the newly refurbished Lakeside Villas accommodation suites on the estate, together with the ‘Stillwater at Crittenden’ restaurant. "We hope to provide guests with the complete package in one location”, Zoe added.

Crittenden Estate first planted in 1982 and is now home to some of the oldest vines on the Mornington Peninsula. Its Garry Crittenden is one of the pioneers of the region’s wine industry. He has been acknowledged for his work in championing Italian varietals in Australia, for which he was inducted as a “Legend” by the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Committee in 2012.

Son Rollo Crittenden is also awarded in the wine industry, being named “Young Gun of Wine” in 2010.

With Rollo at the winemaking helm and Zoe leading the marketing charge, the second generation at Crittenden Estate is poised to herald a new era in wine tourism.

For more information contact:
Crittenden Estate , 25 Harrisons Road, Dromana Ph: (03) 5981 8322www.crittendenwines.com.au <http://www.crittendenwines.com.au/

Nature’s Cruel Tricks

Sad news comes from yet another region to join those previously hit by frost and hail. The Canberra District has had a fairly challenging few years (with the notable exception of 2013) to deal with, and now a hail storm has destroyed more than one-third of the vineyards of some of the Lake George district wineries.

Hail storm wreaks havoc on Lake George wineries

Wet weather and hail has hit the region's vineyards causing havoc for some wineries across the region but ideal conditions for others.

A hail storm destroyed more than one third of the crops at Lerida Estate vineyard near Lake George, and continued wet weather could ruin the rest.

Lerida Estate owner Jim Lumbers said about two feet of hail dumped down on his prized grapes on Saturday night, causing irreversible damage.

"It's extremely unwelcome," he said.

"I reckon possibly a 30 per cent crop loss and a few shredded leaves and broken canes."

Mr Lumbers said he has inspected the damage and some areas of the vineyard looked like they were still intact.

However, exposed bunches of grapes were bruised and split, and he said these will die and fall off the vine.

"Grapes and vines are resilient things so we can only watch and wait. Maybe the berries left will grow a bit bigger, but at the moment it's not a pretty sight," Mr Lumbers said.

Mount Majura Vineyard winemaker Frank van de Loo said rainfall was higher than average but not a disaster. 

"It's not my perfect scenario but we're able to cope with it. Fortunately it's early on. Right now, the grapes are pretty much resistant. It's just a bit more moisture than we would like," Mr van de Loo said.

Canberra District Wine Industry Association president John Leyshon said inclement weather did not seem to be a wider problem for the area.

"If it was March, we would be tearing our hair out, but as long as people have kept up their spraying programs and kept the downy mildew under control, I think people will be happy [with the rain]," Mr Leyshon said.

"It's a really early season. There's been so much growth in the vineyards it is setting up for a good time."

Despite the early optimism, Mr Leyshon said there was a long way to go before harvest in March.

"It could be an early vintage, probably talking about three weeks. Whether it will be depends on how the rest of the season pans out," he said.

"The weather really killed us last year because the rain came in March.

"The grapes were ripe and plump and when you get a lot of rain they tend to split, and the rain didn't stop [last year]. We're hoping for a good 2015, it's looking good at this stage."

Bill Crappsley celebrates 50 years of winemaking

Bill Crappsley is one of the great winemaker warriors of Western Australia.  He celebrated 50 years of winemaking this year, and added a third medal to his previous recognitions in 1999 (the George Mulgrue Award) and 2007 (the Di Cullen Award), both recognising his services to the Western Australian wine industry.  Now he has received the Jack Mann Memorial Medal, again celebrating his long – and continuing – winemaking career, with Plan B!

Hilltops winery Moppity Vineyards

Hilltops winery Moppity Vineyards has never been backwards when it comes to announcing its wine show successes and other critical acclaim.  But I have to admit its performance in the Great Australian Shiraz Challenge was amazing.  392 wines were entered in this year’s 20th Anniversary Challenge, retail prices for the wines going as high as $300 a bottle, and many over $100.  During this 20-year period, only seven wineries have had two wines in the top 10 (including Hardys, Grant Burge, Wirra Wirra and Kilikanoon), but this year Moppity had three wines in the top 10, all gold medal winners, two of the wines vying for the Trophy for Best Wine.  In the outcome, the 2013 Reserve (rrp $70) pushed the 2013 Eclipse (rrp $120) into second place.

Moppity’s show record with its five shiraz wines from the 2013 Hilltops vintage have put beyond doubt their quality.  That record is as follows:

2013 Eclipse Shiraz (rrp $120)

2 Trophies, 8 gold medals

2013 Reserve Shiraz (rrp $70)

1 Trophy, 3 gold medals

2013 Estate Shiraz (rrp $30)

3 gold medals

2013 Lock & Key Reserve Shiraz (rrp $25)

6 gold medals

2013 Lock & Key Shiraz (rrp $20)

3 gold medals (including 97 point gold and equal runner up to the eventual Jimmy Watson Trophy Winner (SC Pannell Syrah), Royal Melbourne Wine Show 2013)

Tony Walker and his latest release "Vintage Tasmania: The complete book of Tasmanian wine"

Tony Walker spent two years researching the history of Tasmanian wine from 1823 through to the present day for his Masters Degree from the University of Tasmania.  The 280-page, full colour book, Vintage Tasmania: The complete book of Tasmanian wine, is the outcome of his painstaking and original research.  I was asked to write an introduction to the book, and, having read it from cover to cover, was delighted to do so.  Rather than paraphrase that introduction, it follows verbatim:

This marvelous book is the culmination of a massive amount of original research on the 19th and second half of the 20th centuries, and extensive interviews with the key players in the Tasmanian wine industry of today. It shuts the door on any further book for several decades to come simply because there is nothing more to say.

It’s rare to talk of a non-fiction work as a page-turner, but this is one such. For not only is Tony Walker a researcher, and commentator, he is a skilled writer. If anyone doubts that, simply read Chapter 4: The Bernacchi Experiment. It adds a further dimension to the book – Walker’s wry sense of humour.

The genesis of the book was a thesis exploring the reasons why wine growing and making failed until the vinous torch was lit of Jean and Cecile Miguet in 1956, 130 years after Bartholomew Broughton made the first wine for sale in 1826. Put another way, the Tasmanian wine industry of today is the most vibrant in Australia, pulsating with success, and with virtually unlimited potential. What has changed so dramatically in such a short period of time?

Walker lays this all out in totally convincing fashion, aided by his understanding of wine in general. I have been a frequent visitor to Tasmania as a flyfisherman since Lake Pedder was filled, and as a wine show judge since 1991, co-chairing the Tasmanian Wines Show since that year, when 45 wines were entered, compared to 449 in 2014. I have hung up my judge’s wig, but the prospect of fishing is still attractive.

I also fulfilled a longheld ambition to be involved in making a Tasmanian Pinot Noir under the Coldstream Hills banner, and would love to make more. The problem is that Tasmania is the only region in Australia with a structural deficit of grapes, as a Federal politician or economist might describe it.

Brown Brothers’ acquisition of Tamar Ridge for a reported $30 million; the purchase of the White Hills Vineyard from Brown Brothers by Treasury Wine Estates; the House of Arras/Bay of Fires ownership by Accolade; and the purchase of the Parish Vineyard by the Hill-Smith Family Vineyards/Yalumba demonstrate the arrival of the Big End of Town in the Tasmanian industry. And this is only the beginning of what will be a golden period for and of Tasmania.

And so back to this book. Its design, printing and illustrations are impeccable. Its inclusion of the Regional Wine Routes is another important part of Tasmania today and tomorrow. Which leads me to Horace Greeley who famously wrote of America 150 years ago ‘Go west, young man, go west’. For Australia, it is a case of ‘Go south, young man, go south’.

The book will become available from the end of November, with reasonably wide distribution in Tasmania, but restricted access on the mainland.  Thus, Tony’s website – www.providoretasmania.com.au – will be the most effective way of purchasing it, at an rrp of $49.95 freight free.  Orders can be placed from November 15 onwards, and it goes without saying, I encourage everyone with an interest in wine – and, in particular, its history – to buy the book.  You will not be disappointed, nor will anyone who may receive it as a Christmas present.

What James is drinking - 2002 Salon

Arguably the most elite of all the elite Champagnes, with an annual production of 5000 dozen bottles to satisfy a thirsty world. Made from 100% Grand Cru vines at Le Mesnil, the wine was disgorged progressively over 2013 and ‘14. It does not undergo mlf, and at no time does oak feature in the elevage. The bouquet is exceptionally powerful, with a cross-cut of pure citrus and white peach on the one hand, creamy brioche and spice on the other; the palate has amazing length and focus, immaculate balance, and a farewell of yellow fruit, spice and lingering acidity. The $850-$950 price tag should not deter those looking for an ultimate experience. Cru Wines (T 02 8069 6974) handles the east coast distribution and Fine Wine Wholesalers (T 08 9314 7133) looks after WA, through fine wine retailers, restaurants and to the odd private collector. This is the 38th vintage of Salon, and, for the first time, a few magnums have made their way into the country. You will have to be quick, however. 

Vale Doug Crittenden 1923-2014

My friendship with Doug Crittenden began in the late 1960s when, on an annual foray to the Melbourne Cup (with friends from Sydney), we visited his Toorak grocery and wine store to buy wines that were simply not available in Sydney. One thing led to another, and he was one of the first members of the Single Bottle Club initiated by Len Evans in 1977.

Although I may not have the details exactly right, I remember Doug being apprehended by water police for not wearing a life jacket while on his sail board. When they asked him for his date of birth he said ‘’23’, to which the response was ‘Smartarse. I don’t want your age, I simply want to know when you were born.’ This incident occurred in the 1980s when Doug was in his 60s.

He had an encylopedic knowledge of the great wines of the world, but was also one of the most enterprising retailers in Australia, persuading Penfolds to sell him (with his labels) experimental vintages of what became Bin 389. More importantly still, he had a great sense of humour and joie de vivre, never taking himself or wine too seriously. His zest for life lasted for many decades, and I feel a keen sense of personal loss.

Len Evans Tutorial - Friday

The Tutorial finished on Friday in the same way as ever: a blind tasting of seven Red Burgundies from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.  The Scholars first had to nominate the vintage, and, once this was done, the vintage was disclosed.  Armed with this knowledge, they ad to guess the order in which they had been poured. Their scores were then tallied, and while they still had wine in their glasses, the correct order was revealed:

Vintage: 2010

Order:
Echézeaux
Grands Echézeaux
Richebourg
Romanée-St-Vivant
Romanée-Conti
La Tâche
Corton

Len Evans Tutorial - Thursday

A great tasting of Pinot Noirs/Red Burgundies started the day’s judging class on Thursday, with many great wines, Burgundy with seven gold medals (see key below), Australia five, New Zealand and Oregon one each. As with the Chardonnays, the cork issue struck Burgundy, most notably the 2009 de Vogue Musigny, oxidised and bretty – normally a superb wine, likewise the 2011 Mongeard Mugneret Grands Echezeaux.

1. 2002 Domaine De la Romanée Conti Echezeaux GC (Flagey-Echezeaux) - 95
2. 2006 Curly Flat (Macedon Ranges) - 93
3. 2006 Villa Maria Taylors Pass Vineyard (Marlbourough) - 92
4. 2007 Maude Mt Maude Family Vineyard (Central Otago) - 95
5. 2007 Bindi Original Vineyard (Macedon Ranges) - 91
6. 2008 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Richebourg  GC (0osne-Romanée) - 96
7. 2008 Mondillo (Central Otago) - 91
8. 2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze GC (Gevrey- Chambertin) - 96
9. 2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes GC (Chambolle-Musigny) - 83
10. 2009 Domaine Hudelot Noellat Romanée-Saint-Vivant GC (Vosne-Romanée) - 95
11. 2010 Ata Rangi (Martinborough) - 93
12. 2010 Dawson and James (Derwent Valley) - 95
13. 2010 Domaine Confuron Cotetidot Charmes Chambertin GC ( Gevery-Chambertin) - 89
14. 2010 Elk Cove Roosevelt (Williamette Valley) - 95
15. 2010 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Echezeaux GC (Flagey-Echezeaux) - 96
16. 2010 Domaine de la Vougeraie Bonnes-Mares GC (Chambolle-Musigny) - 95
17. 2010 Kusuda (Martinborough) - 94
18. 2010 Charteris Winter Vineyard (Central Otago) - 94
19. 2011 Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin GC (Gevrey-Chambertin) - 85
20. 2011 Domaine Mommessin Clos de Tart GC (Morey –Saint-Denis) - 93
21. 2011 Beaux Freres The Vineyard (Williamette Valley) - 89
22. 2011 Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis GC (Morey –Saint-Denis) - 95
23. 2012 Coldstream Hills Reserve (Yarra Valley) - 95
24. 2012 Home Hill Kelly’s Reserve (Huon Valley) - 93
25. 2012 Mount Mary (Yarra Valley) - 92
26. 2012 Yabby Lake Single Block Release Block 1 (Mornington Peninsula) - 95
27. 2012 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard (Yarra Valley) - 95
28. 2012 Felton Road Block 5 (Bannockburn) - 94
29. 2012 Circe Hillcrest Road Vineyard (Mornington Peninsula) - 89
30. 2012 Farrside by Farr (Geelong) - 95

Points conversion key:
85-89 Bronze
90-94 Silver
95-99 Gold

The afternoon Riesling Masterclass was pure pleasure, the Bordeaux Masterclass sheer heel. The ludicrous extraction, high alcohol, dead fruit, and mouth-ripping tannins (compounded by brettanomyces in several instances) came from left field. These wines are priced from $350 to $3300 retails (except for wines 1 ($100) and 2 ($150)). The 2009 vintage caused controversy, most saying St Emilion did far better than Pomerol, and some stratospheric points awarded. The two wines to offer the hope of some drinking pleasure down the track were Chateau Ausone ($3300) and Chateau Cheval Blanc ($2500). It’s a lot of money to spend on a hope.

The Riesling Masterclass wines were:

1. 2013 Pikes The Merle Reserve Riesling (Clare Valley)
2. 2013 Stargazer Riesling (Derwent valley)
3. 2013 Howard Park Riesling (Great Southern)
4. 2013 Harewood Estate Reserve Riesling (Denmark)
5. 2012 Paulett Wines Antonia Riesling (Polish Hill)
6. 2013 Crawford River Riesling (Henty)
7. 2013 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling (Polish Hill)
8. 2012 KT Peglids Watervale Riesling (Watervale)
9. 2011 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett (Mosel)
10. 2011 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Spatlese (Mosel)
11. 2011 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Auslese (Mosel)
12. 2012 Joh. Jos Prum Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett (Mosel)
13. 2012 Joh. Jos Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett (Mosel)
14. 2012 Joh. Jos Prum Riesling Kabinett (Mosel)
15. 2009 Domaine Weinbach Faller Kaysersberg Riesling Schlossberg Cuvee St Catherine L'Inedit Grand Cru (Schlossberg)

The Bordeaux Masterclass wines were:
 

1. 2009     Château Monbousquet (St-Èmillion)
2. 2009     Château Bellevue (St-Èmillion)
3. 2009     Château Bellevue Mondotte (St-Èmillion)
4. 2009     Château Figeac (St-Èmillion)
5. 2009     Château Canon (St-Èmillion)
6. 2009     Château Mondotte (St-Èmillion)
7. 2009     Château Valandraud (St-Èmillion)
8. 2009     Château Angelus (St-Èmillion)
9. 2009     Château Ausone (St-Èmillion)
10. 2009     Château Cheval Blanc (St-Èmillion)
11. 2009     Château Pavie (St-Èmillion)

                                              
The day ended with the following wines, and matched with the menu below:

Pre-Dinner Options

1. 1966 St Ursula Goldener Oktober Rheinhessen (Rheinhessen)
2. 1968 Bernkastel Bernkasteler Schlossberg Mosel (Mosel)

Dry White

1. 2012 Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Mornington Peninsula)
2. 2012 Penfolds Bin 12A Chardonnay (Tasmania)
3. 2012 Giaconda Chardonnay (Beechworth)
4. 2012 Seville Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Yarra Valley)
5. 2012 Brokenwood Indigo Vineyard Chardonnay (Beechworth)
6. 2012 Heemskerk Coal River Chardonnay (Tasmania)

Dry Red

1. 1995 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru (Vosne-Romanée)
2. 1996 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru (Vosne-Romanée)
3. 2008 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru (Vosne-Romanée)
4. 2009 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru (Vosne-Romanée)
5. 2010 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru (Vosne-Romanée)
6. 2011 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru (Vosne-Romanée)
7. 2012 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru (Vosne-Romanée)

Dry Red

1. 1986 Chateau Cheval Blanc (St-Emilion)
2. 1986 Lindemans St George (Coonawarra)
3. 1986 Chateau Lafite (Pauillac)
4. 1986 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Limited Release (Coonawarra)
5. 1986 Chateau Cos d’Estournel

Options

1. 1945 Chateau de la Guimoniere Coteaux du Layon Chaume (Loire)
2. 1938 Chateau d’Yquem (Sauternes)

Sweet Bracket

1. 1976 Erbacher Honigberg Riesling Beerenauslese (Rheingau)
2. 1966 Yalumba Private Bin Sauternes (Barossa Valley)
3. 1944 Chateau Filhot (Sauternes)

Thursday

1st Entrée
Twice Baked Gruyere Cheese Soufflé, with fresh chervil

2nd Entrée
Roasted Fillet of Murray Cod, with baby red radish, pea puree, pea shoots and fresh peas

Main
Braised Lamb Shanks, with creamy polenta, capsicum relish, aioli and gremolata

Dessert
Caramelised Pineapple and Passionfruit Crème Brulee Napoleon

Cheese
Holy Goat La Luna (Sutton Grange, Victoria)

Len Evans Tutorial 2014

James Halliday has been part of the Len Evans Tutorial since the beginning, and this year is providing a birds eye view of each days’ proceedings. This is the 14th annual Tutorial, always held in the Hunter Valley where it all began under the baton of Len Evans.

Each of the first four days of the Len Evans Tutorial has an important component: the judging of 30 wines from a specified variety or varieties. They are judged blind by the four tutors and by the 12 scholars (as they are known) who have successfully applied for a place (out of a field of over 100). They are variously winemakers, sommeliers, wine educators, viticulturists or retailers/distributors. The tutors are Iain Riggs, Ian McKenzie, Tim James and myself, Gary Steel an ex officio member for some of the proceedings.

We (the Tutors) go to a separate room after tasting the wines in silence and knowing no more than the scholars about the wines: their variety/style, and the vintage of the youngest and oldest wines in the class. White wines are judge from young to old, red wines from old to young. The Tutors call out their points for each wine precisely as they would in a wine show, and arrive at a consensus score (out of 100). In the majority of instances the points are so closely grouped there is little need for discussion; if one of the tutor’s score is significantly different, discussion usually resolves the discrepancy; rarely (one or two wines per class) we may agree to a quick re-taste on returning to the judging room.

The Scholars do not have the opportunity to discuss each wine (12 tasters makes this impractical), and they take it in turns to call out their points. Without knowing the Tutors’ consensus score, four or five will be asked to talk about the wine, and why they gave the points they did. They won’t know at this stage whether their score is higher, lower or the same as that of the Tutors.

This process proceeds one wine at a tie, and once completed, the steward announces the name of the wine. Normally he/she (the steward) will have selected the wines for the class – these are highly experienced Hunter Valley winemakers who in bygone days were themselves Scholars; by chance, three this year are present, incoming or recently retired Chairs of Capital City Wine Shows.

On Monday afternoon we judged the Northern Rhône varieties Shiraz and Shiraz Viognier blends. The wines and their scores were:

1. 2006 Kusuda (Martinborough) - 89
2. 2007 E. Guigal La Mouline (Cote-Rotie) - 94
3. 2007 M. Chapoutier Le Pavillon (Hermitage) - 95
4. 2008 La Collina (Hawke’s Bay) - 90
5. 2008 Penfolds Grange (BV) - 95
6. 2009 Dom. JL Chave Hermitage (Hermitage) - 82
7. 2009 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier (Murrumbateman) - 91
8. 2009 E. Guigal La Landonne (Cote-Rotie) - 95
9. 2010 E. Guigal Ex Voto (Hermitage) - 96
10. 2010 Henschke Mount Edelstone (Eden Valley) - 89
11. 2010 Dom. Rene Rostaing Cote-Rotie Blonde (Cote-Rotie) - 90
12. 2010 Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge (Grampians) - 94
13. 2010 Dom. Vincent Paris Granite 60 (Cornas) - 96
14. 2010 Penfolds St Henri (South Australia) - 95
15. 2010 Paul Jaboulet Aine La Chapelle (Hermitage) - 86
16. Yves Cuilleron Le Village (Cornas) - 95
17. 2011 Delas Hermitage Les Bessards (Hermitage) - 93
18. 2011 Pepper Tree Wines Coquun (Hunter Valley) - 93
19. 2011 Dom. Jamet (Cote-Rotie) - 95
20. 2011 Yves Cuilleron Les Serines (St-Joseph) - 96
21. 2011 Best’s Great Western Shiraz No. 1 (Grampians) - 93
22. 2011 Dom. Auguste Clape (Cornas) - 89
23. 2012 John Duval Entity (Barossa Valley) - 95
24. 2012 Shaw + Smith (Adelaide Hills) - 96
25. 2012 Dom. Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage (Crozes-Hermitage) - 80
26. 2012 Head Wines Brunette (Barossa Valley) - 94
27. 2012 The Lane Vineyard Block 14 (Adelaide Hills) - 95
28. 2012 Hentley Farm The Beauty (Barossa Valley) - N/S
29. 2013 The Radford Dale Nudity (South Africa) - 82
30. 2013 Brokenwood Mistress Block (Hunter Valley) - 96

Menu

Monday:

1st EntréeCountry Fried Jumbo Quail with honey, pecan glaze

2nd EntréeCharred Garam Masala Scented Foie Gras, with cinnamon lemons, pea shoots, rose petals and spiced jus

MainRoulade of Duck Breast and Jamon, with pickled baby beetroot, braised beetroot greens, aioli and star dust

DessertCherry Bombe Alaska, with cognac poached cherries, cherry gel and almond crumble

CheeseL’Artisan Extravagant Triple Cream Brie (Timboon, Victoria)

Each evening blind flights of wines are served, with one Tutor (myself Monday evening) running the Options games for each flight or single/double wines). The wines were:

Pre-Dinner Option

1. 1982 Bollinger RD (Champagne)

Dry White

1. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 'Butteaux' (Chablis)
2. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis ' Les Forets' (Chablis)
3. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Courgis (Chablis)
4. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 'Valmur' (Chablis)
5. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 'Les Preuses' (Chablis)
6. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 'Terrior (Chablis)

Option

1. 2001 Dom. JF Coche-Dury Mersault (Mersault)

Dry Red

1. 1983 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
2. 1993 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
3. 1995 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
4. 1996 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
5. 2002 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
6. 2010 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)

                                                       
Options

1. 1959 Avery’s Vosne Romanee le Suchots
2. 1959 Dom. Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin

Dry Red

1. 1970 Château Cheval Blanc (St-Emillon)
2. 1970 Château Latour (Pauillac)
3. 1970 Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac)
4. 1970 Château Cos dÉstournel (St-Estèphe)
5. 1970 Château Leoville Las Cases (St –Julien)
6. 1970 Château de Pez (St-Estèphe)

Options

1. 1990 James Halliday Coonawarra Cabernet (Coonawarra)
2. 1991 James Halliday Coonawarra Cabernet (Coonawarra)
3. 1992 James Halliday Coonawarra Cabernet (Coonawarra)

Sweet Whites

1. 1975 Château d’Yquem (Sauternes)
2. 1975 Château Filhot Comtesse Durieu de Lacarelle (Sauternes)
3. 1975 Château Coutet Barsac (Barsac)

On Tuesday morning, 30 Chardonnays were judged; they (and their points) were as follows:

1. 2013 Deep Woods Estate Reserve (Margaret River) - 94
2. 2012 Shaw + Smith M3 (Adelaide Hills) - 90
3. 2012 Patrick Piuze Blanchot (Chablis) - 83
4. 2012 Tyrrell’s Belford (Hunter Valley) - 94
5. 2012 Coldstream Hills Reserve (Yarra Valley) - 96
6. 2012 Felton Road (Bannockburn) - 88
7. 2012 Xanadu Stevens Road (Margaret River) - 95
8. 2011 Bruno Clair Corton Charlemagne (Corton) - 90
9. 2011 Dawson and James (Derwent Valley) - 95
10. 2011 Devils lair 9th Chamber (Margaret River) - 94
11. 2011 Leroy Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot (Chassagne Montrachet) - 80
12. 2011 Château Puligny Montrachet Chaveliar Montrachet (Puligny Montrachet) - 95
13. 2010 Yabby lake Single Vineyard (Mornington Peninsula) - 95
14. 2010  Etiene Sauzet Batard Montrachet (Puligny Montrachet) - 84
15. 2010  Dom. Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne GC (Corton) - 96
16. 2010  Penfolds Yattarna (Tasmania/Adelaide Hills) - 95
17. 2010  Villa Maria Barrique Fermented (Gisborne) - 91
18. 2010  Louis Moreau Les Clos (Chablis) - 93
19. 2010  Cullen Kevin John (Margaret River) - 88
20. 2010  Giaconda Estate Vineyard (Beechworth) - 91
21. 2009  Bouchard Chevalier Montrachet (Puligny Montrachet) - 96
22. 2009  Dom. JF Coche-Dury Meursault (Meursault) - 95
23. 2009  Dom. Blain-Gagnard Croits Bâtard-Montrachet (Chassagne-Montrachet) - 95
24. 2009  Dom. William Fèvre Les Preuses GC (Chablis) - 95
25. 2009  Olivier Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) - 95
26. 2009  Oakridge Lieu-Dit (Yarra Valley) - 94
27. 2008  Dom. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot (Chassagne Montrachet) - 80
28. 2008  Bastard Hill (Yarra Valley) - 95
29. 2007  Dom. Blain-Gagnard Croits Bâtard-Montrachet (Chassagne Montrachet) - 93
30. 2006  Leeuwin Estate Art Series (Margaret River) - 96

In the afternoon prior to the running of the Melbourne Cup, we tasted (not blind) 14 champagnes; 2002 Bollinger RD edging out the 2000 Krug by a bare margin as the preferred wine, with strong support for the Billecart-Salmon Les Clos St Hilaire.

Menu

Tuesday

1st Entrée
Tempura Ricotta Filled Zucchini Flowers, with pinenuts, currants and basil pesto sauce

2nd Entrée
Confit Pork Belly, with home grown peas, snow peas, Cyprus black sea salt and beetroot puree

Main
Grilled Aged Rangers Valley Rib Eye, with garden salad, potato puree, green beans, béarnaise sauce and jus

Dessert
Sweet Endings, a selection of home made petit fours, chocolates and sweets

Cheese
Morbier (France)

Last night the dinner wines were:

Pre-Dinner Options

1. 1999      Arras EJ Carr (Pipers River/Derwent Valley)

Dry White

1. 1961 Douglas Elliot Oakvale Hunter Valley Riesling (Hunter Valley)
2. 1961 Martin and Sons Bin 342 Limited Riesling (Hunter Valley)

        
Dry White

1. 2000 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)
2. 2001 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)
3. 2002 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)
4. 2003 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)
5. 2004 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)

Dry Red

1. 2010 Yabby Lake Single Block Release (Mornington Peninsula)
2. 2010 Château Confuron Cotetidot Echezeaux GC (Flagey-Echezeaux)
3. 2010 Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley)
4. 2010 Dom. De la Vougeraie Musigny (Cote de Nuits)
5. 2010 Last Horizon Pinot Noir (Huon Valley)

Dry Red

1. 1971 Doudet-Naudin Pommard (Pommard)
2. 1971 Doudet-Naudin Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Les Guettes (Cote-de-Beaune)
3. 1971 Bernard Grivelet Clos du Roi Corton (Corton)

Options

1. L. Bertolo Barbaresco Riserva Speciale (Barbaresco)

Old Dry Red

1. 1959 AWCCS – Douglas Elliot Bin 335 - Medium Bodied (Hunter Valley)
2. 1965 Lindemans Bin 3110 HRB (Hunter Valley)
3. 1965 Douglas Elliot Tallawanta Hermitage (Hunter Valley)
4. 1967 Lindemans HRB Bin 3565 Hermitage (Hunter Valley)
5. 1968 Tullochs Pokolbin Dry Red Private Bin (Hunter Valley)

             
Fortified

1. NV Seppeltsfield Classic Tokay GR06 (Rutherglen)
2. NV Seppeltsfield Grand Tokay DP57 (Rutherglen)
3. NV Seppeltsfield Rare Tokay DP59 (Rutherglen)
4. NV Seppeltsfield Museum Tokay DP64 (Rutherglen)

Royal Melbourne Wine Awards Judges Dinner

I cracked an invitation to the dinner on the cheap; I only judged the Provenance wine class, with much pleasure and speedy agreement between the panel which saw Granite Hills emerge with the Trophy thanks to its three vintages of Riesling: ‘13, ‘08 and ‘03.

The dinner was held at Bellota, next door to the Prince Wine Store, and one of the most congenial restaurants for wine events, but also allowing diners to choose wine from the Prince Wine Store and effectively do a BYO from that point onwards. The menu and wines follow, with my shorthand tasting notes in italics (the wines for the dinner came from several sources).  The theme was a truly interesting one: the 2011 vintage, with its mix of very good (Victorian cool region chardonnays) and rather dilute reds in the eastern half of Australia, with the exception of the Hunter Valley.  On the Burgundian side, 2011 is one of those lighter vintages which give enormous pleasure when young, and just may continue to do so for many years to come.  It certainly ranks behind ‘09 and ‘10 in the view of some commentators, but I would far prefer to drink the ‘11s now than either the ‘09s or ‘10s.  So here goes, and I do emphasise that these are deliberately abbreviated tasting notes.  Having said all that, Rousseau is in a class all of its own; the only problem is getting hold of the wines – as difficult as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

Baby spring vegetables, leaves, salted ricotta
Ocean Eight Verve Chardonnay  
Very intense and focussedYabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay  Refined, balancedSeppelt Drumborg Vineyard Chardonnay  Greatest drive, singularityGiaconda Chardonnay  The most complex and grippy

Snapper, fennel, heirloom tomatoes and green olives
PHI Single Vineyard Chardonnay  Long, intense, lingering
Oakridge Lusatia Park Vineyard Chardonnay  By far the most complex; sulphide works well
Hoddles Creek 1er Yarra Valley Chardonnay  Supple, long
Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay  Very, very fine; still a baby

Braised spring lamb, seasonal vegetables and roast potatoes
Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin  Super fragrant; what an entry wine! Savoury, but with lovely red fruits
Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux-St-Jacques  Some darker fruit notes with lovely spicy, dancing tannins and red fruits
Armand Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin  Very supple, though initially showing some stemmy/green notes which miraculously disappeared
Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin  Bright red fruits with a cross-cut of spice and forest; by far the most charming of the first group – why not?

Herve Mons Comte Reserve – 24 months
Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru  Great hue; has that lovely sauvage character of Clos de la Roche – as ever
Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru Clos des Ruchottes  An avalanche – gentle – of red fruits to start, then forest and spice
Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques  Perfection – how can this be when there are theoretically better wines to follow?
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru  A truly amazing wine; this defies all logic for the vintage, with splendid depth and texture
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru  Superb colour, superb wine; finesse, line and length. It kept on disputing first place with Clos de Beze, the latter often regarded as more attractive and open than the Chambertin in the early phases of development