Q & A on a good shiraz

Q)

Hi James,

In June this year I have my closest friends 50th birthday and one ponders as to what to get someone that has everything, so a bottle of shiraz comes to mind.

If your budget was $1000.00 what would you buy?

A)

If Australian, go to the Langton’s website, and you will see the bottles of great shiraz from top vintages on offer. They can be relied upon to give you an accurate description of the appearance of the bottle, and, critically, the level. In the case of Grange, they will also be able to tell you whether the wine has gone through the Langton’s/Penfolds joint re-corking clinic, that in case of 10 to 20 year old Granges gives you a measure of comfort, but cannot protect you from the small chance that the new cork inserted has had TCA (trichloranisole, the mouldy taint). Remember in considering the prices that you also have to pay the buyer’s premium.

Langton’s also auction wines from the northern end of the Rhone Valley which are Shiraz (or in the case of Cote Rotie, Shiraz Viognier blends). The estimated prices is a pretty good indication of the relative quality of each of these innumerable needles in a haystack.

Regards

James Halliday

Gruner veltliner – the next big thing?

There has been some e-discussion on the possibility of gruner becoming the next serious new contender for recognition. It has amazed me that it has taken so long for it to make its mark, initially through Lark Hill and Hahndorf Hill. In Austria it is grown side by side with riesling, and therein lies its strength and its weakness. Riesling in Australia shows us there are plenty of places where gruner should do well, the wine it produces having both character and longevity. The downwise is the ‘R’ word; if, despite all of the talk of a riesling renaissance, riesling continues to decline in importance collecting consumer disinterest, why should gruner veltliner succeed? Just because there is no obvious answer to this, it should not mean that gruner is a waste of time. There is plenty of room on the Australian viticultural canvas for a renaissance with riesling, gruner by its side.

The month of May... busy times!

May has been an unusually busy month for me, beginning on May 5 to go to Margaret River for a long weekend for dual purposes: first, celebrating the release of John Gladstones’ imperious Wine, Terroir and Climate Change, which can be purchased through the website at a discount of 20% from its RRP, although that is absolutely not the reason that I sing its praises. Secondly, I was the guest of Vasse Felix, which in turned staged a very large subregional tasting of over 70 wines from the six unofficial subregions of Margaret River proposed by John Gladstones way back in 1989.

Then on May 12 I headed to Noosa for the Noosa Food & Wine Festival; a glorious event from start to finish, with equally glorious weather. This alone would have been reason to get out of the Yarra Valley, but all those who have participated in this event want to come back. I chose the wines for the Qantas Ultimate Wine Dinner at berardo’s on Sunday night with a string of stellar chefs from all around the world, Australia’s contribution from Tetsuya Wakuda.

A dash into Melbourne on May 18 for various meetings and events, the next day travelling to the Canberra District for the 40th Anniversary of the Australian National University’s Wine Symposium (and another long weekend), choreographed by Kiaran Kirk, one of Tim Kirk’s (Clonakilla) elder brothers.

Another four days have gone and today I head of to Western Australia as the guest of Matilda’s Estate. It is a very long time since I have visited Albany and Denmark, the southernmost (official) subregions of the Great Southern, so the visit is well overdue. I am praying devoutly that Qantas will get me back late on Sunday night for meetings on Monday with my dentist, followed by a far more enjoyable meeting with Hardie Grant, before I leave on Tuesday headed to Greece for a 10-day visit to the best wineries of the country, with more than a bit of island-hopping.

The flights to and from the far south west of Western Australia, and to and from Greece will be fully occupied with my work on an upcoming book with a deadline of July 6, before I leave that day to fly to Paris for a wonderful 50th Anniversary of Bollinger RD.

Wine, Terroir and Climate Change

An appreciation by James Halliday

Dr John Gladstones is rightly considered to be an exceptional research scientist. He methodically collects and analyses all the available information on each aspect of his research, and patiently establishes the basis for the conclusions he then draws. On the face of it, there is nothing remarkable in this modus operandi until you realise his ability to think outside the square, and, where appropriate, to challenge what are blithely accepted as self-evident truths.

Inevitably his views on global climate change, and its implications for viticultural practices and choices in particular, will be regarded as highly controversial and lead to heated debate. But that only takes up the last part of the book. In the first two-thirds he further develops the concepts of his earlier book Viticulture and Environment, breaking fresh ground to build a new and more fully integrated understanding of viticultural terroir.

He returns to his proposition that a low diurnal temperature range during ripening, with relatively warm nights, gives best fruit and wine quality because it results in fastest and most complete physiological (flavour as opposed to sugar) ripening. Allowing that this occurs throughout all or most of the 24-hour cycle, more flavour and aroma compounds will accumulate relative to increase of sugar or loss of acid. This contradicts the commonly held belief that a wide range and cold nights are desirable in order to preserve acid. In fact, he says, cold nights slow physiological ripening, while hot days hasten flavour and aroma loss or destruction, and lead to excessive berry sugar accumulation.

Dr Gladstones supports the case for organic viticulture, although he cannot resist pointing to the contradiction that its officially allowed and most commonly used sprays of copper compounds and sulphur are inorganic, whereas the prohibited synthetic compounds are wholly or principally organic, i.e. carbon-containing. In the broader scheme of things, he explains why organic matter is so important in building soil health, indeed to the point where it enhances the expression of terroir. But he sees no merit in the added rituals of biodynamics, which he deplores as an unhealthy retreat into mysticism.

As I have already suggested, Dr Gladstones’ views on climate change will be vigorously disputed, although not by me. Almost 70 pages are devoted to a thorough examination of evidence on the subject, and its implications for viticulture. He carefully documents why he believes the analysis of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) is fundamentally flawed, relying as it does on computer modelling unable to encompass the complexity of real climates, on uncertain data, dubious assumptions, and biased statistical procedures. In particular, it ignores the historical and geophysical record of past greater warmth and natural climate fluctuations, preferring instead a misinterpretation of the land-based thermometer record.

The IPCC model suggests that the last 150 years should have seen a global warming of 1°C or more caused purely by anthropogenic (man-caused) greenhouse gases. In fact the thermometer record showed an irregular increase of only about 0.6°C, of which half is well explained by natural fluctuations in the sun’s energy output and magnetic field.

Of the rest, the evidence (including important new insights that Dr Gladstones draws from his studies of viticultural terroir) indicates that most is spuriously related to historical changes in thermometer placement and surroundings, together with real, if still unquantified, general warming due to widespread desertification from land clearing and over-grazing. From this he estimates that greenhouse gases can have produced no more than 0.2°C of any genuine global warming over the period, which corresponds to a largely harmless 0.4−0.5°C for any effective doubling of atmospheric concentration, as opposed to over 2°C in the IPCC models.

Further complicating this is that plants, including vines, benefit from extra carbon dioxide but need higher night temperatures to do so fully. “I conclude,” writes Dr Gladstones, “that the widely held expectation of a viticultural flight to existing cold areas is misplaced. Optimum locations for particular wine styles will probably change little over the coming half century.” To further challenge climate change orthodoxy he adds: “Thus the possibility cannot be ruled out that the best terroirs will continue their historical shift to warmer locations.”

However he also warns that hot inland areas with irrigation are unlikely to benefit. Any migration of viticulture in the dry continents will continue to be coastwards to more equable and otherwise superior terroirs. Growing ability to identify and exploit these means that high-quality wines are becoming more affordable and competitive, to the common benefit of the world’s winelovers and quality wine producers.

This is a fascinating book that deserves the widest possible readership, both within the world wine community and among all with an interest in climate change.

A 20% discount is available to all Wine Companion readers on the RRP of $59.95. Simply enter the code 'Terroir' in the coupon redemption box (note, the code will only work on this specific title). Buy the book here >>

James Halliday and Toby Bekkers discuss organic and biodynamic grape-growing

Toby Bekkers’ press release re: Organic/Biodynamics

Viticulturist Toby Bekkers has launched a consultancy designed to help winemakers and wineries uncover hidden potential in their vineyards and wine businesses. The cornerstone of the process will be improving wine grape quality by introducing natural farming practices.

“Many producers are enthusiastic about organics and biodynamics but are risk averse,” says Toby.

“I assist wineries to improve their business by introducing natural and organic / biodynamic farming techniques. Some want an immediate, complete change whilst others prefer a slower, staged approach.” “I provide not just vineyard management advice, but also brand, communications and management consultancy to ensure that the principles are integrated throughout the enterprise. I understand the commercial considerations that drive wineries and I know how to incorporate business goals and sustainable practices for commercial success.”

After recently living for 6 months in France, Toby warns that the Australian wine industry is lagging behind its competitors in the adoption of organic and biodynamic viticulture systems, which could impact the industry’s future earnings potential.

“Organic and biodynamic practices offer the potential to improve wine quality and should be viewed as smart, low input farming systems. They are no longer solely the domain of the idealist. Many sophisticated and successful wine businesses around the world are benefitting from these techniques,” says Toby. “My goal is to encourage mainstream adoption of ‘natural farming’ systems whilst recognising that for organics to be truly sustainable it must also be profitable.”

Toby has more than fifteen years of experience as a viticulturist and wine business manager. He was General Manager of Paxton Wines in McLaren Vale South Australia where he was responsible for almost 700 acres of vineyard and the Paxton wine business. He has played a leading role in the introduction and implementation of organic and biodynamic viticulture in Australia.

He is in demand as an industry speaker, and in 2006 on the Annual Trophy for Excellence in Winegrowing by the McLaren Vale Grape, Wine and Tourism Association. In 2009 he participated in the prestigious Future Leaders – Succession for the Australian Wine Sector leadership and development program. He holds a Bachelor of Applied Science, Agriculture (Hons.) from the University of Adelaide and a Graduate Certificate in Management from the University of South Australia. For further information on Toby’s services visit www.tobybekkers.com.

James’ blog in response to Toby’s press release…

Biodynamics

Toby Bekkers has launched a viticulture and wine business consultancy service. Bekkers has an impressive academic background, with a Bachelor of Applied Science, Agriculture (Hons) from the University of Adelaide, and a Graduate Certificate in Management from the University of South Australia. On the practical side, he played a key role in the successful growth of Paxton Wines in McLaren Vale, David Paxton himself having an even longer career in viticulture.

I have to worry about the blithe assumption that it has been established organic and biodynamic grapegrowing results in greater wine quality. Organic maybe, but the packaging of the two practices as if they were one is not on in my book. The press release announcing the establishment of the consultancy says ‘After recently living for six months in France, Toby warns that the Australian wine industry is lagging behind its competitors in the adoption of organic and biodynamic viticultural systems, which could impact the industry’s future earnings potential.’

The press release then goes on to quote Bekkers ‘Organic and biodynamic practices offer the potential to improve wine quality and should be viewed as smart, low input farming systems. They are no longer solely the domain of the idealist. Many sophisticated and successful wine businesses around the word are benefitting from these techniques. My goal is to encourage mainstream adoption of “natural farming” systems whilst recognising that for organics to be truly sustainable it must also be profitable.’

This is not an attack on Toby Bekkers credibility or knowledge, but I think he is drawing a very long bow in suggesting that biodynamics will increase Australia’s earnings potential. The 2010 vintage in France, and the 2011 vintage in South East Australia, suggest the opposite.

And the interchange of emails following James’ response…

Dear James,

Thankyou for taking the time to read my press release. Where ‘sustainable farming’ in all its poorly defined forms fits into the Australian wine landscape is a topic of much discussion and I’m happy that you are interested enough to make comment. I thought I would pay you the courtesy of a private response in order to clarify my position on a couple of the points you raised in your blog entry last week. (Note: Toby Bekkers has agreed to the release of this email in conjunction with my original blog, my short response to this email, and his final – even shorter reply.) My intent is not to try and alter your views, rather I’d like to clarify mine.

I do not contend that organics and biodynamics (BD) are one and the same. From my point of view, some clients are interested in making small changes in farming practice, some want to move to organics and some wish to take a further step and look at the BD method of farming. All offer potential benefits, particularly in regards to soil health, biodiversity, quality and reduction of inputs. Many of the aims and techniques of these systems are recognisable in any list of soil management best practice. I’m not fundamentally aligned to one system or another and I would be best described as a ‘biodynamic moderate’ with regard to my robust interest in that system. However, I’d make the point that whilst organics isn’t BD, by definition BD is an organic farming system. This premise would be accepted by regulators, certifiers, organic practitioners and BD growers alike. By nature BD is a controversial subject and people tend to focus on the perceived ritualistic aspects. My interest centres more around the potential benefits in stimulating soil health and a holistic view of the farm rather than the deeply philosophical, although I enjoy a renewed power of observation that comes from investigating these techniques.

The view that organic systems offer benefits in wine quality is widely held by many practitioners and is the overriding motivator for adoption cited. I believe that this stems from a number of areas, three of which I offer below by way of example:

1. Consistency: It is well accepted that improving soil structure, porosity, organic matter content and biological function has the potential to buffer the effect of extreme weather events. In my view, it is not unreasonable to observe that this can reduce seasonal variation and buffer the effects of extreme weather in particular seasons.
   
   
2. Opportunity of expression: I contend that greater complexity in a natural system offers more opportunity for the vine to interact uniquely with its environment. For example, it is widely accepted that soils rich in biological diversity differently liberate native nutrients and minerals from the soil in a form readily available to the plant. In my view this more stable, modulated access to nutrient can enhance the expression of subtle differences between vineyard sites. It won’t override basic viticulture faux pas like poor site selection, but does offer another layer of complexity in good vineyards. If one accepts that terroir is a unique signature of place, then additional layers of complexity within the viticultural system must go some way to enhancing or further defining that expression.
   
   
3. Attention to detail: In the absence of a quick fix, attention to detail in well farmed organic vineyards is second to none and undoubtedly accounts for some of the benefits cited by good producers. Good farmers of any persuasion are generally good observers.

Australia is lagging behind the rest of the world in the adoption of organic viticulture. Best estimates of certified organic vineyard area in Australia are around 1%, whilst in Europe figures of 3 to 5% are not uncommon (exceeding 7% in Alsace Lorraine). I don’t think that Australia can (or will) ride a rocket-like BD-led rise in earnings potential, rather I predict that evidence of sustainable practice may well be required to maintain market presence in the future. What I see as a real risk is the potential for large retailers to make very rapid decisions in response to what they think their customers want to hear. With organic food and beverage sales rising (for example, double digit growth over 10 years in the U.S.) there is the potential for retailers to tighten their expectations of suppliers. If large retailers demand a rapid move to organic production our industry needs to at least have considered the options to allow a rapid transition. Availability and quality of organic wine from other countries has never been better, volumes are growing and retailers expect their suppliers to adapt quickly to consumer demand. In Australia, the recent unilateral move by Coles to ban growth hormone in beef is a good example of a rapid shift in buyer requirements effecting producers.

Finally, tough seasons create problems for all growers. Typically, those that are farming the right varieties, on the right sites, in the right way have the best chance of success. That said, no matter the farming system, sometimes nature has the final say. It has to be agreed that both conventionally and organically farmed fruit has been lost to disease this year, but the assumption that organic production will fail where conventional will not is a commonly heard but flawed premise.

Natural systems are so complex we may never understand exactly why things happen the way they do. This should not stop us trying new things when we observe potential benefits. Likewise we should not cease digging deeper and asking the questions, so thankyou for stimulating these few words.

Kind regards

Toby

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Dear Toby

Thank you for your very interesting email. The only problem is that I agree whole-heartedly with everything you have to say. Clearly, my blog did not make my position clear. Namely, that the advantages of organic viticulture are beyond doubt. The only problem is, of course, the conversion period, and viticulturists weaning themselves from the numerous sprays used in a conventionally-farmed vineyard.

It is when one comes to BD that I hold my hand up and say that I cannot be convinced on anything I have seen or read that BD results in consistently better grapes. Indeed, I would argue the evidence is that, in wet vintages, it leads to irreparable damage. That said, I respect the views of those who believe the system is of net benefit, in the same way as I would not challenge anyone’s religious beliefs.

Best regards

James Halliday

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Thanks James for the response.

I think amongst all systems, there are those that farm sensibly and those that chose to place their vineyards in the hands of faith alone. The growers with a sensible plan get good results and those with unrealistic expectations often come to grief.

Regards

Toby

Christie’s finest and rarest wines auction

Christie’s held a finest and rarest wines auction in Hong Kong spanning April 9 to April 10. In most instances the lots exceeded the lower end of the estimate, and in a number of spectacular occasions realised up to twice the estimate. Sixty vintages of Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945-2005 had a Hong Kong dollar range of HK$400,000 to HK$600,000. The lot realised HK$960,000. Now you might immediately jump to the conclusion the wines headed off to China. In fact, the buyer was a Latin American private collector. Six bottles of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg brought an astonishing HK$540,000 (though below the top estimate) which went to an Asian private buyer (not Chinese). However, apart from two lots of 2000 Chateau Lafite Rothschild (the buyer was anonymous) all of the remaining lots bar two went to Chinese private buyers.

FYI: AU$1 = HK$8.32 (at time of publishing)

Coldstream Hills - Morning, afternoon, evening