Arguably the most elite of all the elite Champagnes, with an annual production of 5000 dozen bottles to satisfy a thirsty world. Made from 100% Grand Cru vines at Le Mesnil, the wine was disgorged progressively over 2013 and ‘14. It does not undergo mlf, and at no time does oak feature in the elevage. The bouquet is exceptionally powerful, with a cross-cut of pure citrus and white peach on the one hand, creamy brioche and spice on the other; the palate has amazing length and focus, immaculate balance, and a farewell of yellow fruit, spice and lingering acidity. The $850-$950 price tag should not deter those looking for an ultimate experience. Cru Wines (T 02 8069 6974) handles the east coast distribution and Fine Wine Wholesalers (T 08 9314 7133) looks after WA, through fine wine retailers, restaurants and to the odd private collector. This is the 38th vintage of Salon, and, for the first time, a few magnums have made their way into the country. You will have to be quick, however.